Public perceptions of Scotland’s industrial past have been dominated by coal mining and ship building - while in textiles, tartans prevailed. Today, Edinburgh researchers are examining patterns which tell a different story. Image Colouring the Nation is a collaborative project by the University of Edinburgh and National Museum of Scotland, which is investigating the cultural and global impact of the Scottish textile industry since the 19th century. The research is based primarily on a collection of nearly 200 ‘Turkey red’ pattern books and textile samples held in the Museum. Turkey red was a method of dyeing which came from the East. It was resistant to sunlight and washing, producing a bright, fast colour. Insights into a lost industry Favoured by textile businesses in the Vale of Leven, Turkey red was used to produce bright, plain cotton cloths as well as elaborately decorated textiles which were sold as far afield as India, the West Indies, Africa and North America. Now all but lost from the local landscape, the Turkey red dyeing and printing industry sustained extensive employment in Dunbartonshire until the mid-20th century. Analysing artefacts As well as Turkey red, Principal Investigator Professor Stana Nenadic and Post-doctoral Researcher Dr Sally Tuckett will examine other Scottish textiles, such as the damask linens of Dunfermline and the delicate muslins of Paisley. The pattern books are being used to produce an annotated catalogue, outlining the history of the manufacturing firms involved and placing their designs in a wider social, economic and cultural context. Analysing the surviving artefacts, together with documentary research, will reveal more about the cultural and global impact of these goods, how they were produced, what inspired their designs, how they were marketed and used. The project, which began in April 2012, is funded by the Royal Society of Edinburgh and the Scottish Government. Foundation for future work The pattern books and fabric samples have provided the basis of a new research resource, a free online exhibition, hosted by the National Museum of Scotland. Academic publications and outreach workshops are disseminating new insights into Scotland’s textile design and industrial heritage and the project will act as a foundation for future research. Image Related Links Colouring the Nation online exhibition Project blog Project webpage Read more and watch a short film of Stana Nenadic describing the project at the College of Humanities and Social Science Research Impact microsite. This article was published on 2024-08-01
